Sitting just inside in the middles
I'm sitting chest deep in the shore break washing machine waiting for another wave. The new sandbar created by runoff from the recent rains was getting along nicely with the dropping tide and with the addition of a new SW swell to the fading yet still potent NW. Of course most people were sitting too far outside to pick up these inside gems and that was fine by me. The truly great ones were far and few between. Everything had to come together just right. Too much NW and the wave just closed out. Too much SW and the wave raced along, just too fast to catch. The match I was looking for were combos of both swells and roped along the new inside bar. I had caught two already and I was hoping for one more before I called it a day. I had almost given up when a peak popped up just to my left. I have always liked a good no paddle take off when I rode standup boards and I enjoy it just as much on the mat. The take offs weren’t totally no paddle, but more a little positioning ad