Skip to main content

Posts

The lastest from the Cosmic Boneyard

Sitting just inside in the middles

   I'm sitting chest deep in the shore break washing machine waiting for another wave. The new sandbar created by runoff from the recent rains was getting along nicely with the dropping tide and with the addition of a new SW swell to the fading yet still potent NW. Of course most people were sitting too far outside to pick up these inside gems and that was fine by me. The truly great ones were far and few between. Everything had to come together just right. Too much NW and the wave just closed out.    Too much SW and the wave raced along, just too fast to catch.    The match I was looking for were combos of both swells and roped along the new inside bar.   I had caught two already and I was hoping for one more before I called it a day. I had almost given up when a peak popped up just to my left.    I have always liked a good no paddle take off when I rode standup boards and I enjoy it just as much on the mat. The take offs weren’t totally no paddle, but more a little positioning ad

Latest Posts

Just me and the Omni

I need it to be summer

Scored some of the new swell

just by getting wet

beginners mind

On the road

The Devil Winds

the return of stolen time

hours before sunrise

Support Live Music